Matthieu Barret is a seventh-generation vigneron with a serious respect for his vines. His estate vineyards are maintained without machines and is a veritable, biodiverse ecosystem that allows his organic vines to thrive. Barret and his team handpick 50% of the grapes from the village of Roussas and 50% from the village of Eclassan. The process involves a great deal of care: maceration in steel tanks, racking and pressing, must settling, and 8 months of aging in concrete. The finished product exudes an aroma of cassis and black pepper. Its notes consist of spice, ripe black cherry, warm leather, herbaceous bramble, and a subtle hint of kombucha. Vilain has been compared to a Beaujolais because of its freshness and supple tannins despite having a little more heft as a solidly, medium-bodied red with a firm, dry finish. Enjoy with a braised rack of lamb or celeriac, mushroom risotto.